Notes From the Road: 6 Favorite Pieces of Paris
Notes From the Road: 6 Favorite Pieces of Paris
A few things I consider crucial from one of my favorite cities on earth.
“Oh, great city, it is in thy palpitating bosom that I have found that which I sought.”
-Alexandre Dumás, The Count of Monte Cristo
My first trip to Paris was in 1996.
I went with my mother and grandmother as part of a tour group, where we spent 5 days in London and 5 in Paris.
I was 15 years old, moody and dramatic. I bought a cape and wore it everywhere in the chilly early summer air. I missed my boyfriend (who was about to break up with me anyway) but allowed myself to take in the beauty of the magical city of lights.
This was before the Eiffel Tower was sparkly and prior to 9/11 and the pandemic. It feels like ages ago. And yet, I viscerally remember being there and soaking in as much as I could. It felt like home to me.
I remember visiting Museum L’Orangerie that first trip, wearing said cape (so embarrassing) where the walls of the small museum are wrapped, quite literally, with Monet’s waterlily pieces. When we were done we stepped out onto the Tuileries, located just outside the museum, and I saw a woman sitting on a park bench. It was chilly and she was draped in a long black coat and a huge black hat that covered half her face. When she turned towards me I could see was smoking from an elegant black cigarette holder. She was feeding the pigeons at her feet with part of a baguette.
I elbowed my mom and spoke quietly, not taking my eyes off the woman.
“I want to be just like her someday.”
I haven’t really lost sight of that dream - well, maybe the smoking piece, but who knows how I’ll feel in retirement. Still, Paris had a great impact on me at a young age. I remember wishing I had more time.
In late 2021 I got that wish, when a client of mine required that I visit France three times in one year to teach classes outside of Paris, but required me to fly into the city each time.
I was obviously not upset by this request.
And so, my partner and I went to Paris three times last year. Only for a few days each time before and after I taught, but I think we’ve made the most of it.
I’ve had a lot of requests from friends to write more about my travels, and this is my first foray into really trying to be intentional about it.
I’ll be writing about:
England
Ireland
France (many locations)
Norway
Germany
Shanghai
…to start. And these will be part of the paid offerings. This freebie is a preview for y’all who are free subscribers in case you’re interested in more.
So please, by all means let me know: what do you want to know about these places? What are you most curious about? Leave me a comment!
And as I prepare to go back to Paris a week from tomorrow, the first time this year and possibly the last time for a while because clients are taking me elsewhere, I want to reflect on some of the things that have stolen my heart.
A few things to share about Paris overall:
Neighborhoods fall under 20 arrondissements. They are governmentally separated districts and often neighborhoods will span over a few of them.
Trains are speedy and they are your friend! But you can absolutely walk all over Paris all day and night if you like.
Most people speak English, but don’t assume. Also it means A LOT TO THEM WHEN YOU TRY FRENCH. Just try. People appreciate it!
Parisians take leisurely meals. They aren’t ignoring you, they’re giving you space. I’m an American who is used to feeling rushed, so this was something I really had to learn and practice. If you need your bill, simply say “L'addition, s'il vous plaît.” I am slowly learning French and this was one of the best things I learned early on.
Love Anthony Bourdain and/or historic literary stuff? There are SO MANY COOL PLACES to talk about, from Gertrude Stein’s salon to where Anthony loved to go hog wild on seafood towers. I’ll likely do a separate list for all of these eventually.
Favorite Pieces of Paris: 6 Sacred Things
The neighborhood of Le Marais, in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. One of the biggest complaints from people that I read about or hear about in regards to Paris is that it’s “super touristy.” That can certainly be the case in Paris ANYWHERE near: The Eiffel Tower, Arc du Triomphe and most of Montmartre, which was where I stayed in Paris as a teenager. Last year we walked by all of those sites just to see them, but it is a nightmare for crowds, in my opinion. We spent a few nights in Montmartre with a friend, but it was…fine? Of all the neighborhood we’ve visited in Paris there is nothing that comes close to Le Marais. Le Marais, meaning “the marsh” in French (because it used to be one) is the old Jewish quarter and LGBTQ+ neighborhood with fantastic food, wonderful boutique shops and streets that aren’t typically jam-packed with tourists. Some of the oldest buildings in this neighborhood date back to 1327. Below you’ll see a screenshot of my Google Map. It’s a 30 minute train ride to the Eiffel Tower (very fast and efficient system) but when we have to go there we usually walk because we literally just walk everywhere we go.
Le Colimaçon, Le Marais, Paris. On the first night in town my partner Windy and I always dine at our absolute favorite place, La Colimaçon, which means “the spiral” in French named for the spiral staircase inside. Windy found this place a block from our first Airbnb and we got so lucky. They make amazing Old Fashioned cocktails (her favorite drink that isn’t very easy to find in Paris) and has some of the best food we’ve had in the city. The service is wonderful and it’s a perfect place to end the night after a long day of travel. Honesty. BONKERS GOOD FOOD. There’s a very special creamy mushroom dip inside that little silver crock in the photo below, and the escargot is baked into a crunchy, buttery edible shell. CAN’T WAIT TO GO BACK NEXT WEEK. It’s also beyond charming from an aesthetics standpoint.
Centre Pompidou, Le Marais, Paris. There are so many museums in Paris it’s hard to know where to start. I was exposed to a lot of art museums as a kid and I got reeeeeeally bored with the impressionists like Monet. And while Museé d’Orsay is lovely, I much prefer Centre Pompidou for modern and contemporary art. Plus the building structure itself is really quite amazing to look at. It’s strange and some people think it’s hideous, but I kind of love it.
The Catacombs of Paris, Montparnasse, 14th arrondissement. Everyone knows I’m a spooky bitch so it’s no surprise that I absolutely adore The Catacombs. This labyrinth of bones sits within ancient Roman halls made of limestone. Ultimately cemeteries were overflowing, there were public health concerns and there was a need for space, and so here we are: over 6 million Parisians underground where their bones rest. I’ve seen people get super claustrophobic down here and freak themselves out, so it’s not for everyone.
I, however, find it beautiful and fascinating.
Inexpensive and fabulous wine. Red wine is my jam and always has been, but these days I really have to stick to light bodied wines from cool climates thanks to being an aging woman. Luckily for me France is a wonderful place to be for those specific needs! You can get an incredible bottle of wine for 6 euros (about $6.50) because there’s no importing/exporting charges! Additionally, fantastic places where you can enjoy said inexpensive wine that has a plethora of it, like Le Baron Rouge in Bastille, 11th arrondissement. This is my dear friend Pat’s absolute favorite spot in Paris and for good reason. It’s warm, it’s jovial, it’s unpretentious, and many nights they shuck fresh oysters outside and have cheese plates. HEAVEN.
Being able to eat outside almost everywhere in any temperature. Whether it’s 80 degrees and you’re under an umbrella or it’s 40 degrees and you’re under a blanket, you can always sit outside and watch the world pass by. This is one of the greatest treasures of Paris. Because truly, it is SO Parisian and so lovely.
These are just some of the favorite things of mine from this wonderful city. Anything you’d like me to dig more into next time? Drop a note here!